Raphael' s Effortless Grace
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The Owl
Vol. 2,
Issue 27
July 10, 2008
Baltimore,
Maryland
Dear Inquiring Traveler,
Even popes have weaknesses. Among them, Clement XIV, otherwise praised as a virtuous man and perfect example of integrity, was fond of a local cheese produced in Raphael’s hometown, the Casciotta d’Urbino—a sweet, yet slightly acidic cheese made from sheep and cow milk that has received a PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) classification from the European Commission.
But somebody much more famous than Pope Clement XIV took action to secure a steady supply of Casciotta. Read on to find out more.
Regards,
Editor,
The Owl
A Grand
Master and the Unsung Influence
of his Origins (part
2)
by Duncan Campbell
Urbino crept into Raphael’s introductions to both Florence and Rome, in the former case through a letter from the Duchess of Urbino to a senior-ranking city official. During the four years sometimes known as his Florentine period, Raphael continued to develop his own style while also assimilating the influence of the art around him, none more so than the work of Leonardo da Vinci. The evolution of his relationship with the other grand master of the time, Michelangelo, had to wait until his move to Rome in 1508, and it was there that he produced the works of renown that still seduce visitors at the Vatican.
Rome and Michelangelo
Raphael’s move to Rome came as a result of a direct request from Pope Julius II. There are claims that the invitation was made at the suggestion of architect Donato Bramante, who also hailed from the Urbino area and was himself distantly related to Raphael. Bramante had recently been commissioned to rebuild St. Peter’s basilica, and upon his death in 1514, Raphael was named architect of the new St. Peter’s.
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During his time in Rome, it was Raphael rather than Michaelangelo who came to be regarded at the time as “the pope’s painter.” This, along with Raphael’s gift for incorporating other influences into his style, did not sit well with Michelangelo, and his rancor for and competitiveness with his fellow artist continued well after Raphael was gone. In 1541, more than 20 years after Raphael's death, he was still complaining that "everything he knew about art he got from me."
Ironically, Michelangelo himself also had a rather curious relationship with Raphael’s birthplace, Urbino. So taken was he with its Casciotta d’Urbino, a cheese made from sheep and cow milk, that he bought land in the area and installed one of his servants there to ensure a constant supply.
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Truffle Paradise Raphael’s birthplace, Urbino, is nested in the heart of the Italian region of the Marche. Located in central Italy, between the Adriatic Sea and the high Apennine mountains, the Marche is a treasure chest rich in history, nature, art, folklore, and culinary traditions—most of it off the beaten track for tourists. The Marche is a paradise for truffle lovers. There are numerous species of tartufi, but the two types worth killing for are the tartufo bianco or white truffle and the tartufo nero or black truffle. The white is the finest and most expensive; tartufi bianchi can cost well over $1,500 a pound depending on the quality and seasonal abundance. The black truffle is much more affordable. Both add a perfect touch of luxury to any meal. Most Italians don't acknowledge the sub-par truffle oil found in the United States; they insist that the only way to serve truffles is fresh—shaved over pasta. Plan to visit Le Marche in October and then again at the end of December for the bianchi and between December and March for the neri to taste them fresh. In the summer any fresh truffles to be found on
restaurant menus will be the tartufo d’estate or summer
truffle, a pale shadow of its noble sisters. You may wonder what all
the fuss is about if you haven't tasted the real
deal.
The young American couple that runs La Tavola Marche knows about everything about the gastronomic pleasures of the region. They will cook for you, take you shopping in the local markets, direct you to the best wines and cheese of the region, and if you wish, give you cooking lessons. La Tavola Marche |
Searching for Raphael in Today’s Urbino
Today, Casciotta d’Urbino is still a staple of the Marche town’s fare, as is its Renaissance appeal. As for traces of Raphael, the town serves more as a showcase for his youthful environment than for his work, the vast majority of which was created elsewhere. You won’t find much more to remind you of him than the modest house of his early years, the statue on the summit of the hill, and his La Muta (The Silent One) in the palazzo ducale. (That is, of course, if you don’t count the predictable proliferation of commercial enterprises that have adopted his name).
But perhaps as you wind through its twisting streets or amble in admiration through the classical Renaissance elegance of its palazzo ducale, you’ll find something of the spirit of sprezzatura that prompted the town’s most noted courtier, Baldassare Castiglione, to reflect wistfully upon the great artist’s death: “Thou didst rouse the gods to jealousy.”
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The Owl
Turns One! The Owl celebrates its first birthday! We journeyed to a number of fabulous countries together during the last 12 months, from Italy to France, Great Britain, Greece, Turkey, and even China. We traveled in the riveting company of Lord Byron, Claude Monet and Antonio Canaletto, to mention just a few. Join in the celebration! Select a photo of a birthday party or of a festivity of any kind that you participated in in Europe, add a short commentary to let us know where it was taken, and e-mail it in jpeg format to: theowl@agorapublishinggroup.com. Should you win the contest, we’ll publish your photo in The Owl, offer you a free subscription to our travel magazine, International Living, for two years, and send a complimentary copy of our anthology of the masterpieces of ancient literature, The Essential Classics. Photos are accepted until the end of August. The winner will be selected in September. Terms and conditions
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